Between Reynihlid on the shores of Lake Myvatn and the northeastern town of Egilstathir, there is a region of volcanic desolation. Beautiful but very stark. Smack in the middle of it was a farm at Fjalladyrd. The family had sheep and goats. They had their own small Lutheran church and they ran a small cafe for tourists, offering soup, baked goods, coffee, juice and--thank heavens--bathrooms.